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PostPosted: Sat Jun 17, 2017 10:22 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 08, 2016 8:11 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Dagenham, Essex, UK
I went to fit the new silencer and found, as suspected, that the holes in the mounting flange on the downpipe and extractor stub do need opening up to clear the new metric size studs. Unfortunately no one else was over today so my friends store was locked up and the only external power socket available was about 6m short of the end of the 25m lead I plugged into it. So no way of drilling out the flanges.
However I did get the silencer loosely hung on the mounting tabs below the chassis rails:

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Before anyone says anything - the paper is only there to protect the paint on the silencer whilst the studs are aligned with the mounting flange on the downpipe and will be removed before the clamp bolts are fitted.

Part of the delay in fitting was that the manual says insert a rod into the opening of the silencer and if it only goes 3/4 the length then that is the "IN" port. If it goes all the way in that is the "OUT" port. Sounds simple - until I cut a length of wood down to fit in the dia of the openings and tried it - it went all the way through from both ends. So I picked one at random to be the in end. Hopefully this will not come back to bite me once it's all connected.

The bolts that held the silencer in place had been crudely cut off in the past and it proved to be a nightmare trying to get the nuts to thread properly. So I took the old 4" angle grinder down to where the power point was and proceeded to grind the jagged ends off before returning to the Militant and using the vice on the front bumper to hold each bolt in turn whilst I finish off flatting them with a file and the chamfered the edges. Once done the nuts threaded on nicely I think I need to source another pair of 3/8" UNC bolts for the clamp bolts as the originals were pretty terminal on inspection.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 09, 2017 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 08, 2016 8:11 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Dagenham, Essex, UK
Finished fitting the silencer a couple of weeks ago:

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But forgot the keys so could not test it so got on with a spot of rubbing down - which was where I found out the front wings are more filler than steel on the outer edges. Never mind welding repair panels in - the entire damn wing needs re-manufacturing - both sides!!

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I then had to head out to Belgium for a week to rebuild a friends Series Landie for him. So this weekend was the first chance to head back and get on. This time I remembered to take the keys with me!! So fired her up to see how the new silencer worked. All seems good on that score now so another box ticked off.



However you will note in the video the temp gauge is still dancing all over the place and the fuel gauge is not working at all. Still need to investigate these two problems - I have the directions to trouble shoot the temp gauge. Fuel gauge is for a later time. I spoke to Martyn at Newark and he said he has some parts for the one on the side of the tank which is also U/S currently. Always used to rely on those in the day.
And I have another, new, issue now - the air is not building enough to stop the warning buzzer going off. It was prior to the remains of the silencer being removed and the hunt for a replacement. And just to add to the fun now when the revs drop down to idle (about 400 - 450 rpm) the air pressure rapidly drops to 35 psi. This was not happening before. I am hoping - perhaps optimistically - that it is linked to the prior problem of air leaking from a fault valve in the foot brake valve. I got hold of a replacement at Newark but looking at it today compared to the existing one it seems fundamentally different. The existing one only appears to have two ports on the sides and one on the base whereas the replacement has 4 ports at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock with a smaller port between 2 of these.
Existing valve
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Replacment valve
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Next time up the old valve will have to come out and be compared physically to the new one - but I am not optimistic that they will match.

Next job was the horn. The old carrier was re-drilled to take the new horn and lucars connected to the ends of the horn loom, the power feed and the earth feed. Once all connected up it was tested and worked OK so another box ticked off.

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Then I turned attention to the drivers door. Getting the winder mechanism in this one was a LOT harder than getting it in the passenger one. I think the holes for the 4 mounting bolts are smaller this side so will need drilling out but more critically the kinked over end of the new assemblies lifting arm seems to have more of a problem this side. The original arms in addition to be longer were dead straight. So I am wondering whether to remove the mechanisms and either get the arms straightened or remove the short arms and fit the old, longer, straight ones. I was tempted to just refit the old ones - but the drivers side has a problem - a broken tooth I think. Anyways - for today I opted to leave it and think on it.

So - got on with rubbing down the radiator surround then fibre-glassed the inside of the drivers wing and started filling it back into shape.

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Rubbing down just removed all the lose paint this time. Next time I'll take an orbital sander with me to fully clean it up ready for painting.
That all took me up to 19:00 at which point I was getting tired and hungry so I headed home.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 18, 2017 9:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 08, 2016 8:11 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Dagenham, Essex, UK
Right - foot brake air valve is out - and what a GODAWFUL job it was
I was working completely on my own and discovered to my horror that AEC had not heard of/embraced the concept of captive nuts in the floor pan - So I had to work out how to hold the bolt head still whilst I crawled underneath to undo the nuts. Got two of them off - the third I wound up grinding the head of the bolt off because no matter what I did I could not secure the bolt head adequately. Six hours of solid, back breaking work. Lessons learnt - life would be a lot easier if the front wheel was off!!
By the time it came off it was 19:00 hrs and time to head home so dismantling will have to wait till then. The union looked pretty gungy though

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Looking at the replacement unit I have on approval from Martyn I think its obvious that they are not alike so if this one cannot be fixed quickly I will have to look for another. In the meantime I need to get this one boxed up and returned to Martyn.

Once back home I started to strip the air inlet side down as per a suggestion on an MV forum. However - nothing is EVER that simple. The pedal assembly came off OK as did the three nuts holding the top of the valve body on.

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That's where easy ended. Two of the three studs were free and easy to move but number 3 looks to be rusted solid. So right now its soaking in WD40 over night to see if it will free off. If not then I am going to have to try and find a way of applying heat to the valve top around that stud. Not sure a hot air paint gun will be enough. Following advice from a friend in the USA its currently sitting in a bowl of Coca Cola

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Other point of concern is the top of the valve where the pedal actually operates. The large dia piston (?) has a polished surface for about half of its circumference - the remaining half is a very different story and has a chewed up look to it as though its gone through extreme wear.

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So right now I am unsure if this one is actually repairable with long term prospects - or whether seeking a replacement might be the wiser course??


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 10:44 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 08, 2016 8:11 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Dagenham, Essex, UK
Long story short on the old valve - I had some good advice on what to look for as a fault and how to fix - but all fell at the first hurdle - the3 nuts came off OK but one stud was rusted solid into the cap and nothing would move it. So I managed to source a replacement from Erentek (£290 inc. VAT and shipping). made a mugs mistake and sent the old valve off first to save on the exchange fee - and when the new valve arrived found I had forgotten to take the blanking plug out of one of the ports.
Luckily the supplier stuck the plug in the post to me. I had intended fitting it this weekend but.... The best laid plans of mice and men etc...... Getting over this weekend to refit the brake valve went out the window. - my own fault though, Sitting indoors of an evening staring at the brake pedal assembly it struck me how crappy it looked and how much easier it would be to strip and paint it here......

Started off by swapping the bolts around that join the body of the valve together so the three long ones are in the right place for the pedal to go back on in the right orientation. And refitting the blanking plug the supplier kindly returned to me.

First problem was getting the split pin out of the end of the cross-shaft. Suffice it to say I now need to replace the pin as the old one is in about 4 pieces
Once it was out and the crosspin driven out I started - three days worth of Nitromors treatments removed the thick layer of IRR green and the OE layer of Deep Bronze green leaving me with a nice clean pedal and base. These were then rubbed down by hand and coated with Bonda Primer. The new foot brake valve was also wiped over with thinners to get any residual grease etc off and given the same treatment:
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Once that had dried for the time stipulated on the tin - 7 days IIRC - the first coat of Deep Bronze Green went on:
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This was allowed to dry for the time stipulated - 16 hours then it was lightly rubbed down and the second coat applied:
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The crosspin is back in place for now - but I think it might need to come out - it goes so far then stops dead so I am wondering if it is a tapered pin. Tomorrow I'll pop it out and try it the other way around.

Next weekend is the Living History event of Laycock at War which I will be attending so no work will be done then.
A restful weekend making foreign tourists think the Soviet Army has successfully invaded the UK. :)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 21, 2017 11:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun May 08, 2016 8:11 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Dagenham, Essex, UK
Oh well - the Laycock event got canned when the rest of the LH group pulled out so I went and worked on the Militant instead.

Finally some good news to report!!

The braking system is now working 100%. Spent all Saturday fitting the new valve first making the classic mistake of bolting the thing onto the floor plates before connecting the unions. Stu's brother Neil was down for the day so got pressed into helping me with this. An hour later it was unbolted again and then rotated to get the Outlet adapters to be fitted and be tightened before being "wiggled" to allow their pipe unions to do up. With that done the Inlet did not line up but looking up I could see the holes in the floor and the bracket did not line up.
So - back up in the cab and a little leverage got all 3 bolts in. This more or less lined up the Inlet side of things - Neil got press-ganged again to help re-bolt the pedal back into place again and now the inlet lined up perfectly.. 5 or so hours work and another badly bruised left shoulder had the whole system re-assembled.

Started her up - and whilst the first leak source was sorted we had another. Pressure would rise to just over 60 psi then drop fast as soon as the engine revs dropped to idle. Wound up with all three of us tracing air lines trying to find the leak without luck.... Then Stu had a look up inside the chassis rails about halfway towards the back and found a little valve with an arrow on it - and in the best traditions of British Army Engineering hit it with a hammer. Bingo!! No more leaks. Air pressure now builds to 120 psi as it should, holds there when the engine drops to idle and holds when switched off - took about 30 minutes to drop from 120 to 110 psi. We assume this is some sort of shuttle valve for the trailer brakes??

So that is one more job crossed off the list. Next one is the engine cut-off adjustment. Lift the pedal and it tries to kill the engine but doesn't quite meaning I have to resort to stalling her out. Not a good solution so next time I am over there its on the "To Do" list.

Next item on the shopping list is a socket to fit the wheel nuts and a 1 Metre breaker bar. If I have to get under the front again I will have the road wheel off to save my back and shoulders

One thing I did notice when uncovering the cab to do the work was those taped seams on the roof. Even though the cab is covered with a 9x9 canvas the keep it dry they are bulging up and pressing on the bulges produces an horrible crunching noise. I am more than a bit worried about those now with winter coming on.

Still - now almost ready for road testing:
    All Lights now work
    Horn works
    Exhaust silencer is on
    Braking system works
    Handbrake work

All I need to do before road testing is to get the wipers working. When the system was not reaching more than 60 psi they did not work but I have yet to test them out at 120 psi.


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