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 Post subject: Engine oil in old AEC's
PostPosted: Tue Mar 13, 2012 9:16 am 
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Just wondering what everyone runs in the way of oil in their old AEC's I run a Matador and the book says straight 30, however I don't think that its the best sollution, when there are now non-detergent multi grade oil's for older engines


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:53 pm 
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In many instances these modern `one size fits all` oils are not suitable. My experience with a large British owned oil company who sent a rep along to our museum claiming alsorts of wonderful things with their oils, we trialed their recommended multi grade oil in our Swift the results were virtually no oil pressure when hot and a tendancy to consume oil like it was going out of fashion- this same rep also stated the oil would ok in the older 7.7 and fluid flywheels , I recall him quoting lubricants for the axles and gearboxes stating that EP 80 w would do every thing , really ?What about the additives and the effects on bronze crown wheels etc etc? No problems he said.

My opinion from that experince was that the Swift works fine with a straight 30 HD SAE (used after a thorough flushing out) oil no severe pressure drop and little or no consumption as does the 7.7, using a multigrade oil in a flywheel would probably destroy the Llewelyn gland and centrifugal action with any detergent oil would cause hot spots( so I`m told) and as for the EP oils in the axle and gearboxes the additives are corrosive to bronze. When I later challenged the rep his reply was as the mileage would be so low it would not make no difference!

My advice to any one check very carefully with your manual / lubrication chart and purchase straight gears oils such AG types (non additives) of the correct viscous , engine use a straight 30 dertergent type oil but flush the engine through first) or what ever sae your manual states, in a fluid flywheel use only a straight non detergent oil usually 30 grade.Buy your oil from a specialist oil supplier who have specialists who will freely advise and want you to have the correct lubricant.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 7:53 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 23, 2012 5:33 pm
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We use SAE20/30 Engine oil and Hyspin for the fluid flywheels for the Railcar at Didcot


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 11:58 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:19 pm
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Peter is totaly correct.

Engine oil - must be mono grade mineral - no full flow filter, contaminates must be allowed to fall from suspension.

Gear oil - must be non EP - contact with brass/bronze etc, whether running or not will damage these metals.

Talk to specialist oil manufacturers.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 3:32 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 3:44 pm
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The information I received regarding the correct oil in fluid flywheels came from Llewelyn Glands who were in business until quite recently their info is also reiterated in most chassis manuals AEC, Bristol , Leyland. as a straight 30 SAE oil , I recall their man stating that the biggest cause of gland failure through slipping and hardening of the seal rubbers was caused by the wrong oils especially ATFs . This too can cause problems with SCG semi auto boxes with the brake band material ....... But as someone asked a question I am merely passing on my knowledge.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 1:02 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 3:06 pm
Posts: 6
I own an AEC 505 coach which I aquired a few months ago and I am about to change the engine oil.
I have been topping it up with 15/40 multigrade but I am thinking of putting in HD 30.
Would anyone know if I have to remove the oil filter.
Also I own an ex LT RF and I have been putting the red ATO oil but now realise this wrong.Can anyone tell me the correct grade of oil please.
Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 11:37 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 10:24 pm
Posts: 115
After scratching my head as to what you mean, I would renew the element and continue to do so. The filter will catch what doesn't fall into the sump. AEC manuals merely specify "epicyclic gearbox oil" for the preselector box. You will probably get a dozen different answers to this one since it is probably even more of an issue with people having firm opinions about; than engine oil is.

As far as the RT goes try contacting the LT museum in Covent Garden for the specification etc.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 30, 2012 5:41 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 3:44 pm
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In response to the thorny issue of epicyclic gear oils there is one I can recommend which is supplied by Morris Lubricants ; Multitrans BC (bus coach) which meets the Leyland spec E85 for SCG boxes which includes AEC , as to whether this covers the pre-select group I would not like to say but as CAV states try the LT museum or perhaps LBPG at cobham , I have a suspicion it might be a 30 grade....


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 3:12 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 3:06 pm
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Re AEC 505 Sorry I didnt compose my previous posting very well,perhaps I should explain in English!!!
.
I have been topping up the 505 engine with SAE 15/30 oil but concencus of opinion says that all old AECs should be HD30 and I was thinking of changing over to HD30 but Im not sure what grade was in it in the first place as I have recently purchased the vehicle.

Referring to the RF all LT vehicles had the oil filter removed and ran for years trouble free, but I am not sure if the oil was HD or SAE oil.as all oils had LT part numbers

From memory preselect gear oil was SB 2152 flywheel and compressors were 176/10 engine oil 176/21 although this information is probably useless without the conversion chart which LT must have had on record when they ordered oil.but I doubt if any copies exist

Hope this clears up any confusion and thanks for your replies.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 5:49 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 16, 2012 3:44 pm
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If you are thinking of changing to a straight SAE 30HD (HD= Heavy Dertergent) I would recommend a long drain to remove a much sludge as poss, if as far leaving a week if time permits and jacked up on one side a few degrees biasing towards the drain, you will be surprised at the extra c~*p that comes out! Dont forget the filter assy too clean that in degreaser replace the element with a new one. If you want to go all the way - under the sump you see will a square plate remove this carefully and attached to it, is the strainer box which comes apart for cleaning( refer to manual) another plus point is that the sump open it canbe wiped to remove final deposits etc. Also suggest that you renew the plates gasket which you will have to make from gasket paper.

Not a clean job but worthwhile . If you do a long drain dont forget a notice on the steering wheel !!!


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