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 Post subject: My New Milk Tanker
PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 3:16 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 05, 2015 2:08 pm
Posts: 4
Aye-up All,

Just joined today, thought you may all like to see my new project.

She is a 1975 (we think) Mercury which our late Dad used to drive until about 1983. Shortly after that, she was parked in a shed and has never been outside until last week.

She looks in good order. The engine runs and sounds beautiful but stopped after about half an hour. It starts again but won't run. I think it's just fuel trouble pre-pump. The rad leaks, the water pump was seized until gently persuaded with a hammer. It works now but presume it won't last long. A ball joint on the steering ram is very worn and the brake pedal is solid. Not at the linkage though. It's all fine until the valve under the drivers eat, which is solid. The clutch needs a new metal fluid pipe. The cab is very tight to lift, presumably the pivots. It seems to pivot on one hinge but not the other. Also, when lifting the cab, the front, right , bottom of the cab fouls on the drivers footplate as it tries to pass it.

Apart from that, she's all good!! Too good to respray I reckon. All the stainless bits are still on the tank and the tyres are all in good nick, having been out of the sun and on concrete.

So, what do you reckon? Where can I get parts? I hope you can all be a good source of advice.

And no, she will never be for sale!!

Cheers, Pete.


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 Post subject: Re: My New Milk Tanker
PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 4:18 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 10:24 pm
Posts: 115
Greetings. It is as you think a Mercury. For your fuel problem renew the fuel filter (CAV 296) and connect up to a can of fresh diesel to gravity feed the engine. Use the fuel in the vehicle tank for parts cleaning only and thoroughly clean out the fuel tank. Your worn steering ram ball joint may only be the reaction ball which needs to move to operate the assistance. Partline are the normal port of call for power steering rams. The footbrake valve is relatively easy to attend to once you have got it off, use wd40 to clean it out internally; not degreaser. To check what is happening when you tilt the cab remove the cab front panel ( securing bolts in the door shuts) and examine the front cab mounting area for corrosion, this may have collapsed. The cabs are heavy to tilt anyway, normally requiring you to open one of the doors. Be aware that these cabs rust badly around the wings so one may come off in your hands.


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 Post subject: Re: My New Milk Tanker
PostPosted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 8:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 05, 2015 2:08 pm
Posts: 4
Thanks CAV.

The wings have been replaced at some time. In fact, the cab was replaced completely whilst Dad worked at Freemans. I'm not really sure why, because it wasn't that old, but both brother and I remember the original didn't have the name board above the windscreen. We were about 11-12 when Dad left. There is evidence of sky blue paint under the green too.

The steering ball joint is the one that seems to be kind of clipped to the side of the ram at the front end?

I don't think the cab mounting has collapsed, everything looks good around there, but I will have a look when time allows.

I am going to replace every flexible pipe on the engine and air system and any steel pipes that look a bit suspect. When I've done that I will drain the fuel tank and see what we can do.

For now, I'm just happy to look at it!

Thanks again.

Cheers, Pete.


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 Post subject: Re: My New Milk Tanker
PostPosted: Mon Apr 06, 2015 7:06 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 10:24 pm
Posts: 115
Hello Peter,

The ball joint you describe is the reaction ball which has to move (slide) in order to work the spool valve inside the ram, which then directs oil pressure to collapse or extend the ram. You should notice that the movement is slightly less with the engine running. I can't recall the diameter of Mercury steel brake pipes, however AEC used their own longer and larger OD olives on 5/8" and 3/4" pipe. The tube nuts and adapters were also a non standard thread, certainly so on vehicles older than the tilt cab range, so make sure when dealing with the brake pipes that you can make pressure-tight joints before you bend any pipe or cut it to length.


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 Post subject: Re: My New Milk Tanker
PostPosted: Thu Apr 09, 2015 9:11 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 05, 2015 2:08 pm
Posts: 4
Ok, thanks again.

I've had a good look and I don't think any steel pipes give need for concern. I haven't started her for over a week and the air pressure was still right up.

Good news on the ball joint then!


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