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 Post subject: AEC Matador Split Rims
PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 10:03 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 16, 2014 12:26 pm
Posts: 8
Hello all,

I am going to have to remove the old slick tyres on my project matador and I have been told that you need a cage to do this, now if I deflate the tyres completely and then remove the bolts that hold the rim together surly this I a safe way of doing this because there isn't any pressure against the rim??

Re-assembly once I have shot blasted the rims and replaced the tyres should be simple?

If you have done this on your vehicle I would appreciate the advice.

Regards
Andy Max


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 11:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2012 10:24 pm
Posts: 115
Everything in your question sets alarm bells ringing. I know this is not the answer you wanted but all split rim wheels are dangerous, they can and do KILL. I can name people who have fallen victim. Your post does not make your intended actions unarguably clear, therefore I would be surprised if you will find anyone on a Forum to offer any advice other than to leave things alone and get help from someone who has the training, knowledge and equipment to undertake the task.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 30, 2014 1:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 24, 2012 4:44 pm
Posts: 171
This is where your nearest road transport museum can be of assistance:

http://www.nartm.org.uk/


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 7:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jan 10, 2015 6:39 pm
Posts: 4
Hi unfortunately most activities in modern life has an element of danger as a member points out but so does driving down a motorway but we all do it.As you said release all the air by removing the valve,use a key which holds the valve.You then can undo the clamp bolts, you might find the tyre has stuck to the rim with rust I used an excavator to track on to the tyre then use the bucket cut edge to force the bead of the tyre of the rim. Wedges and a sledge hammer may do the same.If the tyre is stuck to the rim you will need to clean this rust off before refitting.Check the condition of the clamp bolts replace if ther e are signs of damage ie ,rust wastage ,thread damage etc. Replacementsshould be of a good tensile strength 8.8 or higher some of the original wheels have special bolts with cap heads with a slot in . rebuilding the wheel is a reverse of dismantling keep an eye on the dishes one is deeper than the other ensure valve is pointing out ,you will crush it against brake drum ruining the tube.Once the wheel is clamped tightly you can fit onto the hub and wheel nuts fitted. Inflate your tyre, use along enough inflated lead to ensure you are well away from the tyre never stand in front! Our man is correct in saying about using a cage ,we often inflate heavy machine tyres and can assure your no firm has a cage to put them in .yes if you feel it is above your skill level certainly ask for trained help.otherwise use good old common sense and have a go ,don,t over inflate personally 60psi is plenty good luck


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2015 2:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 07, 2012 4:18 pm
Posts: 20
I'd second what Geri says. We took the valve core out and used a mini-digger to push down on the tyre to make sure there was no air pressure left. We then undid the clamp bolts in a sequence where we undid the opposite bolt each time but did not take the nuts off completely. We then repeated this sequence until all the nuts were undone. Now comes the hard bit, getting the rim off the tyre which will most probably rusted on. We again used the mini-digger, holding the tyre under the blade and using the bucket to push down. It was a hell of a struggle even with the help of Mr Kubota, so be prepared for a fight if you are using bead breakers and wedges, bits of angle iron and a big sledge hammer.
Make sure all the clamp bolts/nuts are in good condition before you reassemble the rims and use a long airline so that you and anyone else are as far away as possible when you inflate the tyre.

IF YOU ARE NOT 100% SURE GET PROFESSIONAL ADVISE/HELP.

Bob


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